SAN ISIDRO DE EL GENERAL, COSTA RICA - Fifty years after the end of the Costa Rican Civil War, commemorative remembrances of this historical event were celebrated on Thursday in San Isidro de El General (to the capital's southwest). The ceremonies were characterized by simplicity, melancholy, and division.
Simplicity, because there were no mobilizations of ex-combatants and no parades celebrating the anniversary. The event was very far from being a crowded gathering; it was actually characterized by solemnity, improvisation and a striking apathy and lack of participation.
Melancholy, because those who have survived these past 50 years could not stop thinking about the violent and bloody acts that took place after 12 March, 1948, when José Figueres Ferrer (father of current President José Figueres Olsen) took the town of San Isidro --the act that will forever be remembered in Costa Rican history as the event that began the only civil war the country has seen this century.
Division, because despite the fact that the ceremonies honored those fallen on both sides -- Figueres' National Liberation Army (forefather of the National Liberation Party), and the alliance of Dr. Rafael Angel Calderón Guardia (Republican Party) and Manuel Mora Valverde (Communist Party) -- only survivors from Figueres' side took part in Thursday's remembrance.
This description should not surprise readers, however: as President Figueres said, the acts were very humble and simple, as was the life of his father.
He added that a country that does not know its history is a country that does not have a future.
``Thursday's division is a paradox at a time when the country is preparing itself for an ordered and respectful transition of power,'' said the chief executive in San Isidro's central park, alluding to the May 8 inauguration of president elect, Miguel Angel Rodríguez of the Social Christian Unity Party, party which had its roots in Dr. Calderón's side of the war.
Figueres stated that in order to forget this separation of families, the anniversary should be remembered as the most important event in Costa Rican history this century.
Remebering the glory
Hot, clear skies and with some rain clouds far away, March 12 1948 was a day just like Thursday, as the ex-combatants remembered it.
The tension, running high in those days, was transformed this time by the reuniting of old friends, the agony for the memory of those that fell and the nostalgia brought about by remembering their days of glory.
The first act to commemorate the victory of Figueres' side was the placing of a memorial plaque on the landing strip of the local airport, where the names were engraved of the pilots who flew several missions from there.
``On 12 March, 1948 at 4 a.m., we entered San Isidro and took the airport. The fighting here lasted an hour and a half and by 2 p.m. that day we had captured two Douglas DC-3 planes and headed to Guatemala to load up on guns and ammo,'' remembered Otto Escalante, one of the pilots whose name is listed on the inscription.
The National Liberation Army took the airport in order to set up an aerial link with Guatemala, where Figueres Sr. had military contacts. The port was also used as a headquarters for operations against the government, and as a take off site for transporting men to various parts of the country during the 40 days that the civil war lasted.
Some 6 blocks away from the town's park, amid parked cars, trees and greenery, is the monument to the fallen of both sides, which was visited by President Figueres and the ex-combatants.
There, Miguel Salguero --another ex-soldier-- remembered the 66 soldiers from both sides who were cremated after being killed during the struggles.
The third stop and final act of the ceremonies took place when the city's main street was named after José Figueres Ferrer.